
Lionel Terray
Actor · 1921 – 1965 · Grenoble, France
Lionel Terray was a French mountaineer born on July 25, 1921 in Grenoble and died on September 19, 1965 at the Gerbier ridge in the Vercors massif. At 11, he made his first easy climbs near Grenoble and then in Chamonix at the age of 12. In the 1940s, he settled as a farmer in the Chamonix valley. In the summer of 1940, he ran on the south ridge of Le Moine. During the winter of 1940-41, he achieved many successes in alpine skiing in the French championship. In May 1941, he met Gaston Rébuffat. He married in 1942 with Marianne, a teacher in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, and took part in the war with the famous Compagnie Stéphane à ski on the Maurienne front. In 1945-46, he was an instructor at the École de Haute Montagne, ski instructor and instructor at ENSA, and a guide. At that time, Lionel made his first races with Louis Lachenal, it was the beginning of great epics on the biggest faces of the Alps and in particular the north faces of the Grandes Jorasses and the Eiger. Then, he left France for Quebec, and became coach of the national ski team. He returned to France in 1949 and set up as an independent guide. In 1950, he participated in the famous French expedition to Annapurna, alongside Maurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal, Gaston Rébuffat, Marcel Ichac (filmmaker), Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot (doctor), Francis de Noyelle (diplomat ), Adjiba (Sherpa). In February 1952, he made the first ascent of Fitz Roy with Guido Magnone. On July 7 of the same year, he made the first ascent Nevado Pongos (5,710 m) and Huantsan (6,369 m) by its North face with Cees Egeler and Tom De Booy. In 1954, Terray took part in an expedition to Makalu (8,481 m) with Jean Couzy. On October 22, they made the first ascent of Kangchungtse (7,678 m) and on October 30 that of Chomo Lonzo (7,790 meters). On May 15, 1955, still with Jean Couzy, they reached the summit of Makalu. In 1956, Terray performs the first Chacraraju (6,112 meters), he continues with the Taulliraju. Before that, between the months of May and June, he had climbed the peaks of Veronica (5,893 meters), Soray (5,428 meters) and the second ascent of Salcantay (6,271 meters) taking a new route along from the north face. Returning to France, he took part in the attempt to rescue Vincendon and Henry on Mont Blanc. In August 1957, Terray participated in rescue operations on the north face of the Eiger to rescue Italian climbers Claudio Corti and Stefano Longhi. During the summer of 1958, he appeared in Marcel Ichac's film "Les Étoiles de Midi". In July 1961, Gallimard published his first book, Les Conquérants de l'Inutile. In April 1962, Terray returned to the Himalayas and made the premiere of Jannu. The same year, he climbed the East Chacraraju (Peru) and the Nilgiri (7,061 meters) in the Annapurna massif (Nepal). In 1964, Lionel Terray led an expedition to climb Mount Huntington (3,731 meters). During the climb, Terray fell and injured his elbow and right hand, he nevertheless reached the summit on May 26. On September 19, 1965, with his friend Marc Martinetti, Lionel Terray fell to his death at the Arc de Cercle crack, at the Arêtes du Gerbier, in the Vercors. He is buried in Chamonix.
Movies7
Movie10.0HistoryDocumentaryThis documentary is a reconstruction, based on archive footage, testimonies, and filmed reconstructions, of the Vincendon / Henry tragedy. December 1956: Jean Vincendon and François Henry, two young mountaineers, aspire to join the High Mountain Group. Lacking experience, they set out to climb Mont Blanc via the Brenva spur in the middle of winter. The weather conditions deteriorated, and they decided to give up before meeting Walter Bonatti and Sylvano Gheser. They then decided to continue the climb and set off in two different roped parties. Bonatti decided to take refuge at the Vallot refuge higher up, rather than descend. The two young mountaineers, overcome by the poor weather conditions and fatigue, remained stuck for several days at 4,000 meters. What followed was a completely disorganized rescue operation that became, for more than ten days, a spectacle for all of France and a national tragedy.
Movie9.5DocumentaryBiography of ski instructor, mountain guide, mountaineer and filmmaker-lecturer Lionel Terray. Film-portrait of an emblematic figure of French mountaineering in the 1950s and 1960s, reconstructing the life, the great races and the expeditions of the "conqueror" of the most difficult walls and summits of Europe, the Himalayas, the Andes and North America. Marcel Ichac produced in 1966, the day after the Gerbier accident, this illustrated tribute by bringing together personal archive documents, unpublished animated sequences or extracts from expedition images as well as comments taken from the autobiographical texts of Lionel Terray " The Conquerors of the Useless" and "Battle for Jannu". This film, presented at the Cannes Film Festival, has won numerous awards at specialized film festivals, including the Trente Festival and the Banff Festival.
Movie7.0DocumentaryAdventureLes Etoiles de Midi is an engaging docudrama about some of the more spectacular exploits of French mountain climbers over the last several decades. In one re-enacted story, there is a wartime escape through the mountains, and in another, a daring rescue of a pair of climbers who had been missing. The actors themselves are adept at the sport of climbing, and they give the scenes an immediacy and real daring that brings the stories alive. A combination of their acrobatics and skill and the outstanding episodes in the history of French climbing creates a winning 78 minutes.
Movie10.0DocumentaryAdventureIn 1950, a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog went to central Nepal to conquer the highest peak (8,091 meters): Annapurna. The film is not only made of what we see, but even more of what we don't see. Its imperfections are the negative imprint of the adventure. Memory is the most faithful of films.
Movie10.0DocumentaryAdventureRetrospective of four major peaks climbed by French expeditions: Annapurna (8078m) in 1950; Makalu (8481m) in 1955; Mustagh Tower (7273m) in 1956 and Le Jannu (7710m) in 1962. A film by Lucien Berardini and Jean-Marie Perthus with the support of the French Alpine Club and the FFME (French Mountain and Climbing Federation).
Movie10.0DocumentaryWith the tank truck of the company British Petroleum (BP), the Bozzetto fuel delivery man crosses mountain roads in winter. Headed to Val d'Isère in Savoie, it faces, night and day, the vagaries of traffic in snowy weather, and penetrates the life of the winter sports resort living to the rhythm of development activities. , sports and tourism: tunnel construction, snow milling machine, cable car, hotel and catering as well as skiing from the peaks to the village (off-piste descent demonstration by Lionel Terray).
Route des Cimes
1957 · 1 votes
Movie10.0DocumentaryAdventureThree years after the 1959 expedition, abandoned 350m from the summit, Lionel Terray leads a new assault on Jannu, one of the most demanding peaks in the Himalayas. At the base camp, equipment and food rations are prepared. The conditions are optimal and the ascent can begin. The camera follows the progress of the mountaineers and Sherpas as closely as possible, from one high-altitude camp to another: installing fixed ropes, progressing over crevasses, in the middle of frozen towers, vertically down immense ice falls or along the edge of sharp ridges. From 7000m, oxygen bottles become essential, as the difficulty of the climb prevents acclimatization. The expedition is a total success: the majority of its members reach the 7710m summit.
Series1
TV9.0DocumentaryAction & Adventure"Les Coulisses De L'Exploit" was a French television program of sports information created by Jacques Goddet and Raymond Marcillac, and broadcast on RTF Television then on the first channel of the ORTF from December 13, 1961 to August 16, 1972. The principle of this program is to report on sports news but also to meet men and women performing exceptional feats. According to Raymond Marcillac: "Competitive sport is not our only field of action. It never has been. We want to discover beings whose life is enriching, exhilarating; men who have accomplished acts that can be offered to our admiration without reluctance."
Les Coulisses De L'Exploit
2 votes